August 11, 2022

A couple of years in the past a hearsay started to flow into that by 2020, the world would run out of chocolate. Thank goodness it didn’t occur, and in reality within the Caribbean the reverse has come true with a revival of the cocoa business and an explosion in chocolate producers.

Jamaica was the primary provider of the chocolate and low homes in Britain within the late 1700s however earlier than that Grenada, then a French colony, was the world’s largest producer of cocoa. Not dangerous for an island simply 12 miles by 21. Nevertheless, as Europe discovered its candy tooth and different plantation centres thrived, the Caribbean chocolate market went into decline.

Now the largest revival has taken place in Grenada, the place half a dozen unbiased chocolate-makers are booming and the island exports fine-quality cocoa beans.

Booming: A revival of the cocoa business has taken place in Grenada after a interval of decline. Pictured is St George’s, the island’s capital

In the event you’re on vacation right here, it’s price taking a day away from its wonderful seashores reminiscent of Morne Rouge to go to a chocolate property, to see the cocoa walks and partake in a tree-to-bar expertise. Grenada even has a chocolate competition, held in mid-Might, after the winter season ends, when lodge costs are decrease and the climate continues to be not stifling.

The competition is 4 days of tasting classes and talks in regards to the three predominant cocoa beans – the 2 utilized in Grenada are the criollo and trinitario beans. You possibly can join sensible chocolate-making classes and property visits. The island micro-brewery even lays on a spread of chocolate-flavoured beers. All of it culminates in a ticketed gala dinner (no black tie required) wherein all seven programs, from soup to dessert, comprise cocoa or chocolate in bitter or candy type.

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As a part of the competition, I be a part of a gaggle tour heading north, on the coast highway that clambers over headlands and sweeps deep into enormous bays, ultimately reaching the cocoa property at Crayfish Bay. Right here we stroll by means of the plantation. Cocoa bushes stand 30ft excessive, their lustrous darkish inexperienced leaves shining within the dappled daylight. Above them soar shade bushes, referred to as immortelles however also referred to as ‘madre de cacao’ or ‘mom of cocoa’, whose orange blooms set Caribbean valleys aflame every January.

Property proprietor Kim Russell describes the age-old course of. Cocoa pods – yellow, inexperienced, brown, even scarlet – that sprout randomly from trunk and branches are harvested with a knife on a pole and damaged open to disclose a tower of intently packed beans sitting in a scrumptious, sticky white pith.

Glorious: James Henderson says holidaymakers should take break from Grenada's beaches, like Morne Rouge beach (above), to enjoy the island's chocolate experiences

Wonderful: James Henderson recommends taking a break from Grenada’s seashores, like Morne Rouge seashore (above), to benefit from the island’s chocolate experiences 

James attended the annual Chocolate Festival where visitors can learn about the three main cocoa beans. Pictured is a cacao tree

James attended the annual Chocolate Competition the place guests can study the three predominant cocoa beans. Pictured is a cacao tree

Again on the coronary heart of the property in a cluster of previous buildings with crimson tin roofs, we see the beans bundled into wood bins and lined with banana leaves, the place they’re ‘sweated’ for a number of days to ferment away the pith. Then they’re unfold on to trays on runners generally known as ‘boucans’ to air-dry within the solar or pushed again underneath cowl in case of rain. We take turns to ‘dance’ the beans, shuffling by means of them barefoot in order that they dry evenly.

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The ultimate stage is roasting. Kim turns a cage of beans over charcoal embers. They offer a particular, smoky flavour to his (largely 75 per cent darkish) chocolate.

The Chocolate Competition was created by Magdalena Fielden, a Grenada resident, initially from Mexico, who bases the occasion at her lodge, the True Blue Bay resort, within the south-west of the island. She offers talks on cocoa’s Mayan origins as forex and the way its bitter flavour is essential in Mexican cooking.

Subsequent morning I head to the Belmont property the place Grenada’s chocolate resurgence originated. On the new manufacturing unit and customer centre, we watch the method. After roasting, the beans cross by means of a sequence of aluminium vats the place they’re winnowed (husks separated from beans), melanged (floor down and combined with cocoa butter and sugar, additionally flavouring) after which conched (extra turning, to take away risky flavours and get the best texture). The luscious, silky result’s poured into moulds and cooled.

Belmont makes a wide range of bars in addition to 75 per cent darkish chocolate, flavouring them with nutmeg and sea salt, and even ‘Oil Down’, after the Grenadian nationwide dish of salted meat and vegetable stew.

A Belmont creation at the island’s chocolate festival

Chunks of the island’s speciality

Chocs away: A Belmont creation on the chocolate competition (left) and chunks of the island’s speciality (proper)

The competition closes with two dinners. The primary provided seven programs ready by True Blue chef Jose Luis Gomez and chef Ramces Castillo, of the Gary Rhodes restaurant at Calabash Resort, and included cocoa-secco and chocolate-flavoured tapenade, cocoa-nutmeg hen and at last sesame chocolate truffle with cocoa-tea ice cream.

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The second was a tackle Grenadian avenue meals, with hen mole tacos, bitter chocolate pork ribs and cocoa nib-crusted grilled fish – and a jump-up (celebration).

The True Blue dock bounced to dancing late into the evening.


James Henderson was a visitor of the Grenada Tourism Authority. The chocolate competition ( is from Might 13 to 18. Virgin Atlantic ( flies to Grenada 3 times weekly from Heathrow by way of Barbados.